Glow-worm F28 Fault: Ignition Unsuccessful — Causes & What To Do
The F28 fault on a Glow-worm boiler means ignition was unsuccessful when starting up — the boiler tried to light but couldn't establish a flame. The most common causes are no gas supply, a frozen condensate pipe, or a faulty ignition component. You'll have no heating or hot water.
What does the Glow-worm F28 fault code mean?
F28 indicates ignition was unsuccessful when starting up — the boiler attempted to ignite but no flame was established, so it locked out. You'll usually have no heating and no hot water.
Why won't my Glow-worm boiler light (F28)?
The most common causes, in order of how often we see them on call-outs:
- • No gas supply — the gas valve at the meter or boiler may be off, a prepayment meter may have run out, or the supply may be interrupted. Check other gas appliances first.
- • Frozen condensate pipe — in cold weather the condensate discharge pipe outside can freeze, blocking the flue and preventing ignition. F28 (often with F1 or F4) is a classic frozen-condensate code on a Glow-worm.
- • Faulty igniter or spark electrode — the component that creates the spark to light the burner can fail, so no flame is established.
- • Faulty flame detection electrode — the electrode that confirms the flame is present can fail, so the boiler shuts down even if ignition starts.
- • Gas valve fault — the gas valve may not open to let gas through, so there's nothing to ignite.
Can I reset the F28 fault?
You can try one reset after checking the gas supply and (in winter) the condensate pipe. If the condensate is frozen, thawing it and resetting can clear F28. If gas supply is fine and the condensate isn't frozen, a reset won't help — an ignition component or the gas valve needs a Gas Safe engineer.
Can I fix this myself?
Safe homeowner checks
- Check whether other gas appliances (hob, fire) work — if not, the gas supply is the issue
- Check the condensate pipe outside for freezing in cold weather
- Check the boiler pressure gauge (1.0–1.5 bar is healthy)
- Read the fault code and note it down
- Try one boiler reset after checking the above
Engineer required
- Replacing the igniter or spark electrode
- Replacing or testing the flame detection electrode
- Diagnosing or replacing the gas valve
- Clearing or rerouting an internal condensate blockage
- PCB diagnosis and any work inside the boiler casing
Gas work legally requires a Gas Safe Registered engineer. Tampering with gas appliances is dangerous and unlawful.
Safe checks you can make first
- • Check other gas appliances — if your hob or gas fire also won't light, the issue is your gas supply (meter, prepayment credit, or a supply fault), not the boiler. Contact your gas supplier.
- • Check the condensate pipe outside — in freezing weather, look for ice at the pipe end or where it dips. If frozen, warm it gently with a hot water bottle or warm (not boiling) water poured over the frozen section, then reset the boiler.
- • Check the pressure gauge — if it's below 0.6 bar, repressurise to 1.2 bar via the filling loop, then reset.
- • If gas supply is fine, the condensate isn't frozen, and pressure is normal, the fault is an ignition component or gas valve — book a Gas Safe engineer. Don't keep resetting.
Need this fault diagnosed? Book a Gas Safe engineer.
What should you NOT attempt yourself?
The igniter, flame electrode and gas valve sit inside the boiler casing and involve gas. Any work inside the casing is gas work that must be done by a Gas Safe Registered engineer. Never open the boiler casing yourself.
What will a Gas Safe engineer check?
- • Confirm gas supply at the boiler and check the meter/regulator.
- • Test the ignition spark and inspect the spark electrode.
- • Test flame rectification — whether the boiler detects the flame once lit.
- • Check the condensate route and flue for blockages.
- • Test the gas valve opens and lets gas through correctly.
- • Diagnose the PCB ignition and gas valve signals, replace the faulty part, and re-commission with a combustion check.
How Urban Suburban can help
Our Gas Safe Registered (594547) engineers repair every Glow-worm model — Betacom, Ultracom, Flexicom and Energy — across Surrey, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire and West London, and carry common sensors, fans and ignition parts on the van. Most Glow-worm fault-code repairs are completed in a single visit, with any part quoted and agreed before fitting.
Related Glow-worm fault codes
Frequently asked questions
What does the Glow-worm F28 fault code mean?
F28 means ignition was unsuccessful when starting up — the boiler tried to light but no flame was established, so it locked out. You'll usually have no heating and no hot water. The most common causes are no gas supply, a frozen condensate pipe, or a faulty ignition component.
Does F28 mean my condensate pipe is frozen?
Very often, yes — F28 (often shown with F1 or F4) is a classic frozen-condensate code on a Glow-worm in cold weather. Thawing the condensate pipe gently and resetting the boiler often clears it. We can also lag the pipe to stop it recurring.
How do I check if it's my gas supply?
Check whether other gas appliances in the home — a hob, gas fire, or cooker — work. If they don't, the issue is your gas supply (check the meter valve, prepayment credit, or contact your supplier), not the boiler.
How much does it cost to fix a Glow-worm F28 fault?
Labour typically runs £90–£220 plus the £150 call-out (which includes the first hour). If a part like the igniter, flame electrode or gas valve needs replacing, that's quoted and agreed before fitting. A frozen condensate is often cleared within the first hour.
Technical content & review
Technical content by URBAN SUBURBAN GAS
Gas Safe Registration: 594547 · NVQ Qualified engineers
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